Back from vacation
September 3rd, 2011 | Uncategorized | Comments Off
It was a whirlwind vacation, planned months ahead and set on seeing the Southwest again. I had been away too long. A friend, Carol, and I spent six nights in Santa Fe, New Mexico, just enough time to soak in some opera, walk through the annual Indian Market and cruise nearby towns. And oh yes, we bought stuff and ate at some really good restaurants.
The Santa Fe Opera presents a new season every year for two months in the summer. This year, we saw Charles Gounod’s Faust, Antonio Vivaldi’s Griselda and Gian Carlo Menotti’s The Last Savage. The other two operas were Giocomo Puccini’s La Boheme and Alban Berg’s Wozzeck.
I am a novice at opera, but I love the entire theater experience-its music, voices, costumes and the set. Sometimes the plot is overly ridiculous or tedious, but I remind myself that these operas were written in another century. It really helps when an interpreter screen is built in behind every seat such as it is at the Santa Fe Opera House.
The opera house is semi-opened to the weather’s elements. There are slivers of horizon-to-sky on either side of the stage that allow glorious golds, brilliant scarlets and deep purples to illuminate behind silver clouds at sunset, fading just as the stage lights appear.
Twice while a diva and divo(?) sang their arias about heart break and grief, thunder and lightning commenced as if they were cued. One wonders what music does to the weather.
The weather cleared up during the day for Indian Market. Native American tribes from New Mexico and surrounding states come together to show and sell their crafts for two days in August. The Old Town in Santa Fe becomes walking traffic only, and the vendors set up tables on the sidewalks and in the Eldorado Hotel. Spectators walk around with their enormous turquoise and silver jewelry from past markets. The buying is usually vigorous, but this year seemed quiet-possibly due to the recession.
I was disappointed at the contrasting prices and quality of the wares this year. A pink shell one strand necklace, each shell beautifully matched, made by a seasoned jeweler went for $100. A pink shell three strand necklace on the street cost $35 by a younger vendor. I couldn’t tell the difference up close, but the extreme prices prevented me from purchasing one. Don’t get me wrong, there were a handful of artisans that made beautiful work. I couldn’t resist a pair of silver, onyx, turquoise and colored stone earrings handmade by Navajo Gerald Begay. His work was among the best I saw this year. Carol could not help herself either. She owns a delightful silver dragon fly with turquoise crafted by the same artist.
Among the pieces that I wished I had bought but did not, was a fetish carved from pink coral. It was of a woman and a little child standing back to back to each other. It touched my heart, but it couldn’t reach my wallet.
Aside from spending money, we visited Abiquiu where Georgia O’Keefe found inspiration for her paintings. We had lunch at the Abiquiu Inn where the trout was excellent. That may be the only restaurant in Abiquiu. Robert Redford dropped in for a toilet stop the last time I was there.
I needed one more glimpse of Cerro Pedernal, a flat top butte in Northern New Mexico. This formation gives me spiritual energy every time I am near it-but never close enough.
Our last full day was spent in Taos, New Mexico. Very quaint and laid-back, the town was very quiet. Some shops and restaurants had changed hands or left completely. A historical site, Taos Inn, no longer sold caps. Its Adobe Bar that served famous margaritas was empty. I was sad. Taos had lost its spriteful energy, but hopefully not for long. We had lunch at Doc Martin’s. My local beet salad was refreshing.
We drove to the Taos Pueblo. Our guide was a young man by the name of Cameron. Carol remembers his last name, I don’t. He attended the University of Hawai`i for a couple of years and absorbed himself in ethnic studies. He then realized he needed to return to his Taos roots. I could relate to that, having attended a Culture, Autobiography and Ethnicity class in Santa Fe in 2002, I was determined to return to Maui and promote autobiographical writing. (Since then, I give workshops at the Kaunoa Senior Center on Maui.)
We sat by the stream that flows from Blue Lake, and contemplated our week in New Mexico, the land of enchantment. After experiencing a release of physical stress from my nerve endings, I realized why I love New Mexico. The land, air and sky always seem to balance me out. There are good and nurturing spirits there in New Mexico. I feel like the world is OK, and my life is going the way it is meant to be.
On the way out of Taos toward Santa Fe, we stopped at the Steak House for dinner. The restaurant sits all alone in the surrounding hills overlooking Taos and everything to the horizon. We shared squash flowers, elk filet with blueberry sauce and kobi beef filet with truffle oil sauce, and very dry martinis.
Not to forget the other places we sampled, The Ore House is one of my favorites. Yes, I should have taken photos of the food we ordered, but I didn’t. I remembered La Casa Sena from my other visits, but this time, the service was lousy. Next time, I do want to visit Pasquals, Gabriel’s and Tomasinas.
I’m looking forward to returning to New Mexico. Maybe next time I’ll drive to Roswell.